What’s on the menu at Campechano Cafe, the popular new taqueria spot for Mexican brunch
Last name: Cafe Campechano
Contact: 374 Bathurst Street, campechano.ca, @campechano.cafe
Piece: Kensington Market
Owners: Raena Fisher, Daniel Roe
Chief: Daniel Roe
Seats: 40 indoors, 36 outdoors
Accessibility: Fully accessible
Mexican brunch in the form of bright and punchy small plates takes center stage at Campechano’s brand new restaurant. Like other owner-operated brand taquerias in Adelaide and College, a strong in-house masa (corn) program is the backbone of the menu. There’s no pre-packaged tortilla in these kitchens: Campechano imports dried heirloom corn from small Mexican farms and processes it on-site, from nixtamalizing (an alkaline dipping that improves corn’s nutritional value and flavor) to grinding and to shaping.
In taquerias, the masa is mainly made into tortillas. Here, the fundamental ingredient takes on myriad other forms: wrapped in a banana leaf for a moist, steamed tamale; fried in a tortilla-tostada hybrid; or transmuted into tender, chewy hominy in a deeply spiced pozole. While the finished dishes appear deceptively simple, a meticulous complexity underlies their components, like potent salsas and concentrated broths made with carefully selected ingredients, including local meat and eggs.
There’s everything you need for brunch drinks: coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and tasty cocktails, including (of course) mimosas. Try the piña mimosa, which replaces the juice of grilled pineapple and lime with the traditional orange.
Behind the counter is an impressive array of masa processing equipment, including a conveyor belt that produces tortillas. Next to a handful of tables near the counter, there’s a hallway into a bright and airy dining room with hanging lamps and cheerful minimalist decor. And, if you’re lucky, you might be able to meet Rami on the sunny front patio.